posted by Ross @ 3:51 AM
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Update 12 - Spirit to Vavilov transfer
Dec 24 broke bright and clear, another blue sky, and still water. Chris still had a bit of a lurch on, whether from his alcohol consumption the previous night, or his lopsided walk up a very impressive peak with one snow shoe and one crampon, (his footprints were very amusing, one thigh level print, one yetty print, one thigh level print . . .) we will never be certain. We breakfasted on pince mies (made by Peggy) from the night before with heavy hearts. It was our last day on Spirit and the rendezvous with the cruise ship Vavilov was 9am!! The race was on to get into the cabin first to find your gear and get it packed before it became buried in extraneous and unclaimed belongings; whose camera cable was whose and where is that gps, is that my hat or yours, I'm sure I left it here, shuffling and disgruntled sighs. However, there was also the sad realization that we were leaving this very unique and special yacht, its cooky inhabitants and an environment which had shaped us and brought us closely together over the previous 2 weeks.
We motored to our meeting point, further into Paradise Harbour, lounging on deck and drinking cups of tea. Vavilov was late so some of us went ashore to walk up a nearby hill, the last time we would be deposited on land by our wee zodiac. There was a contingent from the Vavilov, just arrived, who were also deposited at the same spot, about 60 folks compared with Spirit's three, and our group hastened up the hill to get away from the throng. There they found a chinstrap penguin rookery, the tenacious little rascals had found their way up there, about 100m high, quite a climb for a short legged feathered individual with food for two or three. They like rocks and tend to nest well away from the shore, but that was obviously the nesting site of the extreme sport chinstraps.
Anyway, back on Spirit there were introductions going on between Woody, the scientific leader and head of the English speaking crew of the Vavilov, and his semi-reluctant would be passengers. He approached on a zodiac at least 10 times the size of ours, and its outboard purred like a kitten. We bridled defensively. Our entire luggage collection went in one shuttle, and he returned for us shortly after. There was much hugging and we arrived shortly after at the Vavilov, with strict instructions on the ONLY acceptable way to get off the zodiac. After our little 8 passenger trip, looking after 91 passengers, of varying age and capability, is a very different operation. Cabins located, and what space, each of our cabins was approximately the entire living area on Spirit. Basins and fresh white fluffy towels, non pumping toilets and a shower head you didn't have to hold!! Stairs, libraries, dining rooms and presentation rooms, drying rooms, air con, other people to cook your food AND wash up - in short, complete luxury. A few briefings later, we met in the bar for a cup of tea. The Irish group we briefly met before they went off in the zodiac to their kayaking leg in Spirit. There was a strong sense of deflating spirits and a growing realization that we were completely exhausted from our previous leg. There was an afternoon zodiac trip which a few of went on and which was a spectacular ride, while others engaged in the first of many naps.
A strange change in dynamics occurred, after the close proximity of the previous few weeks, all the chores, watches and relative lack of privacy, we now all had our own space and freedom. Yet despite that, there were lots of other people around and lots of noise, there were things organized throughout the day; zodiac trips to shore, morning tea, talks, lunch, further zodiac trips, all very ordered and pre-arranged. Tannoy calls to our cabins called us to meals in the dining room and announced the impending trips and lectures. Comparisons were made to Hi de Hi and One Flew Over the Cuckoos Nest! We all felt a little lost, and not a little out of sorts, and persisted in walking around with our Santa hats on as a means of identification and camaraderie. No herding for us please. No watch for us that night, the ship hummed quietly and we woke in the morning back at Deception Island on our return to Ushuaia.
Christmas Day. Peggy and Chris presented us all with little gifts, which was a lovely surprise. After an amazing breakfast of eggs, bacon, fruit, porridge, cereal, oj, toast, tea and coffee, and STILL no washing up, there was a trip to Bailey Head and Whalers Bay arranged. Excellent, on our previous visit, the wind had been unfavourable for landing here, so we were not going to repeat any parts of our trip. We walked in groups amongst 100,000 nesting pairs of chinstrap penguins. Lots of the chicks had hatched and were being kept warm and fed by their devoted parents. There were single chicks and nests of two, but often only one survives and it was apparent from quite an early stage that one of the chicks was strong and healthy while the other was noticeably more scrawny. We also saw a skua flying off with an unprotected chick and were amazed at how quickly it swallowed it on the wing, as well as the usual squabbling male penguins and a few late season last minute courtship attempts.
The afternoon was spent at Whalers Bay, where we walked to Neptune's Window, a depression in the rock face close to the entrance to the caldera. It was bright and clear but there was a biting wind and we all walked vigorously through the sulphurous steam along the beach and up the short rise. The whaling station in the early 1900s was taken over by the British Antarctic Survey, and it was inhabited for much of the century but after a few volcanic eruptions was deserted. The area has old hangars, huge fuel tanks and the remains of old whaling vats, wooden barrels and whale bones scattered around. We, of course, HAD to have another swim in the hot pool, this time generously dug by our muscular crew and we all leapt in, Santa hats still intact and sang Jinglebells not very well but everyone joined in. Ah, it was great. An extremely wet journey back to the ship followed, as the wind had been increasing during our visit. Christmas dinner followed, delicious, with a few furtive vodkas chucked in and we all hit the hay pretty early still catching up on our sleep.
Boxing Day and our journey back was continuing to be very uneventful, the dire weather forecast given us by Darrel obviously a complete fabrication to try to frighten us. We packed in the morning, Chris, Peggy and Stephen were leaving for Wellington first and it was very important that they carry out as much as they brought in as we were up to our absolute limit on the baggage stakes. Trying to weigh bags while standing on a set of scales while the boat was pitching and rolling was quite a feat, actually trying to stand on the scales alone was difficult enough without a 23 kg bag on your back also. Dry suits washed and dried, snow stakes divvied up and the baggage was set.
In the afternoon, Ross gave the ship a short entertaining presentation on our Spirit of Sydney leg, with Joy and Stephen working tirelessly on the photographs and video clips. There was keen interest in our journey and a lot of questions were asked about it, including details of the knock down. A job well done guys. Dinner - more food, the previously roomy trousers were rapidly starting to get tight again and a day at the gym may be necessary for the last day on the Vavilov.
Posted by Mary
posted by Ross @ 4:41 AM
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23rd December into Christmas Eve!
Today started with my anchor watch which was actually quite interesting
and busy. Fending off the ice with a big stick and watching seals and
smelly penguins … I can think of worse things to do to spend the time
between 5.30 am and 7.
We then moved on to Paradise Harbour and Mary, Steve and Joy had a
paddle. The scenery was breathtaking and we were surrounded by chunks
of ice. First spot of Adelie penguins – apparently named after Queen
Adelie of France. Engine off and peace amongst the ice, great. The
paddlers carried on towards yet another base and we then motored towards
it too. Paddler switch then happened and Mary and Joy came back on
board and Ross and Ben started out. After a long paddle they reported
that they'd seen a leopard seal take out a penguin … if I'd been in a
kayak at the time I wouldn't have been for long! Had a go yesterday
though so that was good.
After a zodiac dance singing Jingle Bells which went down very well we
carried on to Cuverville and dropped anchor while the snow started … we
decided that today would be Christmas Day so that was very apt and we
are all wearing Christmas Hats and we've hanging baubles around the
boat. This morning we hoisted Santa to the top of the mast. His beard
is growing well and he looks the part. (That's Chris) Several photos
and a broken rope – sorry halyard – later we lowered him down. It
wasn't his fault the rope broke, honest.
We travelled amongst several squillions of penguins and watched them
porpoise and jump up off ice. You've got to be here to see it. It's
funniest when they try and jump out of the water and miss. Zillions of
photos later we dropped anchor behind the Australis Australis Santa
Maria Australis with their zodiac called Australis Australis … they will
conveniently shield us from the ice for whoever is on anchor watch – not
me, I did my time yesterday. We'll miss Dorca and Snow Petal.
Peggy, Chris and Mary decided to stomp up the nearest hillock in the
driving snow (?) and Chris had a bit of an equipment failure due to
Dazza's Dodgy Dealing Equipment dot com. Later we watched the guests of
the VodkaOffSki (our ship we are joining tomorrow) skip merrily up there
in half the time. Several excuses followed … owing to the weather and
equipment considerations. The Offskis just walked up in jandals (I'm
surrounded by Kiwis) no doubt.
Hey it's Christmas and after a few emails, a Kill Me or two – Quilmes is
how the Argentines spell the local beer - a fabulous BBQ and Christmas
empanadas which were actually our pince mies in disguise made by Peggy
(delicious), we actually have made it to now. Considering what we have
done it's impressive and we've had a fab time. Tomorrow we transfer to
the VodkaOffSki and we'll miss our wee Spirit of Sydney. Thanks to
Dazza and Ben, it's been great.
Posted by Jane (most people have called me Mary this trip but I'm not!!)
Darrel is now having huge amounts of fun because he's seen the weather
report for when we're across the Drake. Looks like we're in for a shake
rather than a lake for the trip back. Oh well, shit happens.
We are about to transfer to the Vavilov (popularly known as the
Vodkaofski) so will no longer be contactable at the GMN email address.
Will need to suss how we email from Vavilov.
posted by Ross @ 1:42 AM
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Today got off to a bit of a slow start because a couple of the crew were
a little bit squiffy after a good old night on the grapes.
After a hearty breakfast of porridge and strewed fruit we weighed
anchor, but not before sending a distress call to the Port Lockroy in a
vain hope that Mary's precious little red hat was there. It had been
declared lost after a thorough woman-search of the forward cabin. News
was that the item was not at Port Lockroy, so the said item was declared
officially lost amidst much sobbing from Mary.
We left in pretty good weather but soon hit a lot of ice, which
effectively blocked our path to Paradise Harbour. The sound of ice
hitting the hull is quite spooky, especially if you are huddled in the
"Head" (see how the nautical lingo is flowing now?) covered in Snow
Fairy shampoo trying to have a bit of a shower. Thoughts of a rapid
abandonment of ship did not bear consideration in such a bubbly state,
so all thoughts of Titanic Consequences were put to one side as several
days of accumulated grime were sloughed off despite the sound of ice
rebounding off the hull just 8 mm away!.
Our passage to Paradise was marked by views that just defy
consideration; views augmented by the thunderous sounds as glaciers were
calving. Sensory overload! .
The bread making challenge has reached new heights. Today's batch set
new standards for consistency and evenness of colour for the crusts.
This batch was voted the best ever cooked on the yacht by Captain
Courageous. The next crew, from Ireland, don't stand a chance in this
culinary competition.
Shortly after the bread was produced, Mary's precious red hat
miraculously appeared after a very short man-look. Well done Steve.
To be fair, this boat is like the Bermuda Triangle. Equipment
mysteriously goes missing then reappears in the spots carefully
searched, the same applies to items of clothing as well.
We finally arrived at yet another unoccupied Argentine Base called
something or other, where the dreaded kayaks were dusted off and I had
to undertake the kayak challenge. Thanks to Tim McGuiness in Wellington
for my training, but all was in jeopardy as I was particularly stressed
at the thought of this exercise in water just over 1 degree centigrade
and full of ice.
Imagine my horror as the call went out "Whales just behind you Chris,
Minke's astern… Then, rigid in fear, the swimming behemouth then
decided to swim under my kayak. Well, that was pretty much it for me.
After a couple of wobbly circuits of the fair ship Spirit of Sydney
(SoS) I high tailed it back to the sugar scoop and rapidly passed the
kit on to Peggy. Tick that box as completed.
Meanwhile, everyone else was roaring about but not treated to the
lifetime experience of being buzzed by a whale! There is no justice in
the world at times.
Today, we have kayaked, skied and snow boarded but the pace is starting
to take its toll. The relentless affect of long days (up to 19 hours)
is wearing us all down. But we still continue to eat well and have a
great time.
We are now tied up off a Chilean Base called Gonzella Videllaz (the
spelling of this is guaranteed to be wrong as Captain Dazza spelt this
out for me, so don't look for this place on the map). Here we have had
to anchor the boat with stern lines fixed to two rocks and an anchor,
due to a 3 metre tide range, nasty currents, some shifty looking ice and
other bad things that we can only imagine. This means anchor watches
again.
Yeh, so I'm on at 1 am to 2:30. But it will still be light and the
putrid smell from the large Gentoo rookery here will keep us all awake
while we are on watch!
While I have been laboriously hammering out this blog, the others have
been decorating the tiny 2m by 2 m cabin for our official Christmas Day
tomorrow. A riotous time can be guaranteed.
Posted by Chris.
posted by Ross @ 5:21 PM
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Early start the next morning as Darrel wanted to leave for our next port
around 10am. Porridge bolted, then scramble for gear as we decided
whether to paddle in the harbour or snow shoe up a nearby hill.
Following an initial decision to do both in shifts, we changed our minds
after 1.5 hours of preparation had still not gotten us either onto land
or into our kayaks – small vessels make for limited movement and
difficulty getting organized. Being methodical and consistent is the
key to effective life on board. However, it was short but rewarding for
both parties when we finally made it, the kayakers headed off for a
short paddle around the head and back again, as well as getting in some
rescue drills. Sea kayaks are the bomb in these conditions, the sea did
not look at all inviting and their stability is very reassuring,
especially when a glacier calves into the sea setting up huge standing
waves across the bay. The snow shoe trial effective in stopping us from
stepping up to our knees at best in the soft wet snow and just good
really to get off the boat and move around without stooping and lurching.
Only 45 mins late, much to Darrel's approval, we left Enterprise for
Wiencke Island, a small island just SE of Anvers in increasing wind
conditions and with lots to do in the next 5 hours for our next venture
– an island traverse and an overnighter on land. Lunch prepared and
dinner precooked for the trip - a huge bolognaise with lots of red wine
– rico! Getting the gear together was a hugely time consuming affair,
scenes of devastation below deck, skis, snowshoes, sleds, boots,
crampons all hauled out from the foreward cabins, harnesses, prussic
ropes, climbing ropes, iceaxes and shovels all in a space of 2 metres
squared for 9 people, plus 9 people – Paddy's market wouldn't be in it!
But out of the mayhem slowly appeared 9 orderly packs about 20 kgs
each, sleds with the snow shoes, skis, primuses and food for 3 days,
just in case weather conditions changed for the worse and we had to stay
an extra night.
Just in time for Darrel to come below deck and pronounce that the wind
conditions made landing on the east side of the island impossible and
the island traverse was not going to happen! Quelle debacle!
However, don't panic. Darrel always has a little alternative
arrangement up his sleeve, and true to form, he quickly changed our trip
plan to sailing west of the island down the Peltiar Channel where the
conditions were much more favourable for landing. We were sailing with
50 knot winds behind us, so fairly hoofing it down the Channel, the
genoa helping to stabilize the boat. Just to our port, we sailed past 2
huts seemingly huddled near the shore - one orange Argentine and the
other an old British Antarctic Survey Hut. The BAS hut had been
planned for removal but for the night it was ours. Slowly and gingerly
with those 50 knot winds blowing fiercely, we transported ourselves onto
land, sleds and gear well secured. We landed on rocks and were met by a
gentoo penguin who hopped out beside us and looked at us quizzically,
puffed up and feathers gleaming, content in his comfort zone, unlike
ourselves. Peggy and Ross quickly built a platform, set up a snow anchor
and belay point and had the sleds up quickly and efficiently. Frances,
Joy and Mary set off to open up the hut, passing several small gentoo
colonies en route. We were met with a sturdy green building, built
circa 1940, shutters in place. What a relief from the wind when the
door opened, and we stepped inside – and what a find when we opened it
up. Big kitchen with bench table and seats, a small library of books,
cupboards full of tins of dried milk and chocolate, porridge, dried
chicken and mutton packets (all circa 1940s), an old copper for boiling
water, and a bunk room to sleep about 15 people. Fantastic. Old snow
shoes and wooden skis, an old wooden sledge outside.
After a feast of spag bol and red wine, too cold we decided in
retrospect to drink red wine in Antarctica, we hit our bunks and slept
like logs, outside howling wind, inside the rustle of sleeping bags and
gentle sporadic snoring. Next morning we awoke to a perfectly still day,
on the shores of a little bay. The tide had gone out. There was
feverish activity among the many penguin colonies, coming and going from
the sea, eggs being brooded and the couples changing from time to time,
stones from other penguin nests being stolen by errant penguin males
trying to build their own nests and keep their demanding mates content.
Completely unperturbed by our wandering throughout the area it was an
idyllic scene, even the guano seemed a little more perfumed this
morning. Some trial sledding, Peggy got the gold star for a champion
sled with no wipe outs, and skiing with skins tried out by Ross and
Frances, all very successful.
After consultations, it was decided to send a few items back to the
boat, a couple of sleds, the rest of the red wine, too cold to drink
and heavy to carry, a pair of skis and climbing boots. Ben joined us on
the next part of our 2 day trip, a tramp across to Thunder Glacier and
camping overnight there, this being the most challenging of our
escapades to date.
Gear duly packed again with a little wistful sigh, being a packhorse
just isn't what it's cracked up to be. Harnesses and snow shoes on, we
set off for our mammoth trip. We started up a moderate slope, v low
gradient by tramping standards, but it was slow going with wet snow and
snow shoes, and that seemed to be our general speed. We played what's
the time games and were always amazed how much time had elapsed and how
little headway we seemed to be making. Roping up to go across a part of
the glacier which had quite a steep slope and had some slots running
along it further down towards the sea, it became quite slippery and
there were a few moments when voices got raised and tension increased as
the dramatists (myself included) imagined themselves hurtling down the
slope and landing in a 5 k deep slot at the bottom of which was –1.4
degrees of water (and that was the best case scenario) – added to which
was the snowy skyscraper (Mount Jabot) on the other side which was about
to unleash a furious avalanche at any time. The relief was palpable as
we finally made it across to the other side and we celebrated reaching
the top of the ridge by having a flopsy in the sun and having a cup of
tea and a wee snack.
By this time we realized our original intention to go across to a
further glacier was a little ambitious and if we continued in like
manner we might just reach it by the time we had to return to get back
to the boat. So after a quick decision making posse get together, we
decided that just up a wee bit and under the ridge would be a perfect
place to stop for the night. And so we did. And what a snow village
did we build, a walled surround for all our tents, all with million
dollar views, a big kitchen/eating area with bench seats, a wee dunny
with a modesty wall, a space for toilet paper and magazines and the
piece de resistance was the igloo Ben built with Wombat Hole written
proudly on the side with cocoa powder! The snow was perfect for building
and it was sunny and warm, about 13 degrees and there was no wind at all.
After dinner of pasta with mushroom sauce and a little snifter of glava
and whiskey, in our new abode, we walked up to the top of the glacier,
pack free. Bed soon followed, bizarre in broad daylight, and we all
slept moderately well in very very cold conditions.
Breakfast at 5.30am and an early start to ensure our prompt return to
the boat. This was much colder and there was an icy wind so the layers
all got piled back on and a few more besides. After an initial period
of not roping up, several incidents, Jane going up to her knee and Ross
to his thigh in the snow had us all hurriedly putting our ropes back on
and spreading out to avoid those devious snow hidden crevasses. Another
cautious trip and a route change across the front of the glacier had us
all down on the shore 90 minutes later to be greeted by a group of
gentoos all very inquisitive about the goings on on their turf so to speak.
Another sunny day. There followed a huge period of drying tents and
boots, washing smelly socks and eating huge amounts of freshly baked
bread with butter and vegemite, (we are becoming very adept at this
bread making business) after which we went across to Port Lockroy, a
British Antarctic Heritage Trust Building. The area used to be a
whaling station and there are huge whale bones scattered around and the
skeletons of boats amongst the myriads of gentoo nests, guano and the
ever present sheathbills. There is a museum here also and a tourist
shop, the proceeds of which go towards the upkeep of the historical
sites all over Antarctica and South Georgia. Here we bought up large,
anything with penguins and whales, keyrings, teeshirts, maps and
teatowels, in complete loopy style, all paid for with credit card just
to see Antarctica on the invoice! Sad but true.
Back on the boat, Stephen decided the moment had come for a skinny dip,
something he been been talking about doing for some time - fast but with
great aplomb. Ross followed suit but no-one else took up the gauntlet
and we ended our evening drinking red wine and sun and lounging on the
deck. Dinner was a spectacular barbeque and we all tottered to bed in
various states of drunkenness.
Posted by Mary
posted by Ross @ 4:56 PM
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Rounding a small spur we were suddenly presented with the vista of a
huge rookery stretching maybe 800m inland, with birds occupying terraces
up to 100m above the sea. There were tens of thousands of birds. After
a constant landscape of only black and white we were surprised to see
areas of green moss or lichen just outside the nesting sites. This was
presumably where the guano was sufficient to work as fertilizer without
being so much as to be so acidic that it was poisonous. Steam was
rising from many patches of ground and there were patches of brown soil.
It was like a different land. Below the rookery the westerly swells
crashed into the rocks sending spray 40 metres into the air.
We made our way carefully across the last snow slope and then descended
a steep scoria ridge to just above the edge of the colony. We had lunch
here and with a little sun the temperature rose briefly to 12 degrees –
positively balmy conditions. A white-morph giant southern petrel soared
past several times, a rare and special sight.
The penguins were in various stages of nesting and we observed
courtship and mating as well as changing of the guard as the females
returned to take over brooding from their mates. The most remarkable
part of their existence was the effort required for the birds to return
to the nests. Schools of penguins would porpoise in on a wave, clearly
going as fast as possible to avoid the leopard seals and other predators
patrolling the coast. The shore was guarded by a reef against which the
rollers smashed with a violence that seemed non survivable, yet the
penguins would appear through the foam, a few at a time, porpoising
furiously until they could reach the boulders near the shore. Once
ashore, the battle continued with a hop across the rocks, then a clamber
up the single, very steep snow ramp that provided access to the rookery.
Skuas patrolled the area and judging by the number of egg shells below
the nest sites, enjoyed reasonable success, but not without risk. We
watched a skua loose a battle with the chinstraps, who broke its wing
and leg, While it was able to retreat 5 metres from the nesting area it
was then set upon by another skua. The video of this is spectacular.
The skuas are remarkably majestic birds despite their vulture status. We
later came upon a nesting pair. The brooder was almost invisible,
nestled down amongst the rocks, while its mate stood guard.
Amongst all this shore based activity we also watched whales breaching
off-shore.
Today we are motoring to Murray Passage on a nearly glassy sea. A good
lookout is required as there is quite a lot of ice around. The lookout
effort was rewarded when we spotted three humpback whales bubble netting
krill. Cameras are working overtime.
Written by Ross
posted by Ross @ 1:43 PM
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posted by Ross @ 1:31 PM
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Update #6
Zombies - Our second and third days on the Drake Passage would put the
crew to the test, after watch shifts, cold nights, rolling seas, sea
sickness, and only a few hours of darkness each day, sleep depravation
was starting to kick in. Our shifts were split into 3 hour watches, each
with three crew, and either Darryl or Ben navigating, and competing for
the speed record when the wind really picked-up, the record finally
going to Darryl who managed to top 22 knots while surfing the yacht on a
huge rolling wave! These make Cook Strait look tiny by comparison.
A Bump in the Night – It wasn't long after the speed record was bagged,
before something went bump in the night and woke a few from their deep
sleep. The yacht had rolled heavily from side-to-side and in the process
threw Mary from her top bunk. With the lights back on we found Mary on
the floor bleeding from her head, we managed to patch her up the best we
could given the circumstances, and get her back to sleep. In the
morning Ben gave Mary a check-up, and after applying some benadine and
making a turban for her head, Mary was declared ship-shape again.
Phantom Burglars & Ghost Ships – After some time spent in the Antarctic
convergence zone, we modified our shifts to include the iceberg watch,
which basically involved two people poking their heads out into the wind
and sea-spray to lookout for Icebergs, fondly called Iceburglars by
Jane, probably because after a while she thought they'd all been nicked.
That was until the radar picked-up a massive burglar ahead, after
slowing the yacht, we patiently waited for a mountain to appear, it
never did though, we suspected it was just fog – or was it… later that
evening, still in the fog, visibility down to 100m, up pops something
that looks like a ship, after a couple of exchanges with a Russian
ship-mate, we thought we were set to pass well clear of each other,
although they decided to play a crazy Ivan on us and continue head
towards us, only a glimpse of a steaming light seen through the thick
fog indicated how close we actually passed!
Deception Island
Land Ahoy – and not a moment too soon. It was a hard run across Drake
Passage, the crew were tired and land was a welcome sight this morning.
When first seen, Deception Island is very peculiar shape, and now has
a relatively new and fascinating crown-shaped volcanic add-on (1970),
apparently the skyscraper sized appendage appeared over-night. On a map
Deception Island is crater shaped, with one small opening where the
crater wall was breached by the sea.
Growlers – As we lined-up our course into the mouth of the crater, we
were on the look-out for Growlers, and still the prize for finding the
first Iceberg. Growlers are small chunks of ice that break-off larger
ice sheets, icebergs or fast-ice still attached to the mainland. Some
of these can be fairly substantial and even the smallest ones can be
rock hard so it's best to avoid them in a fragile yacht.
Deception Landing – We found a mooring in a sheltered corner of the
crater, on the way we noticed that we weren't the only visitors, a
cruise ship had been parked-up in one corner for the night, another
smaller vessel was tucked in there too. We decided that we needed to
conquer this Island and get some much needed exercise, so we jumped into
a inflatable Zodiac and off we went – what a great feeling for the whole
crew to finally walk on Antarctica J We spent the next 90 minutes
open-jawed, pottering around an area with similar terrain to Ruapehu,
and like any respectable Kiwi or Pom would do, we were soon reduced to
making snow slides.
Hot Water Beach – After a lunch break back on the boat we were feeling
quite please with ourselves, and began talking ourselves up a little
over who would brave the local spa facilities found on the Island. A
number of beaches boast hot volcanic spas and are easily identified by
steam from where the spas meet the icy cold Antarctic Ocean. The
boasting was done, the bait was taken, and within an hour a group of us
found ourselves on our way, togs in hand, while Ross and Ben went to
check-out the local ski slopes. The beach landing was a little rough,
and it had started to snow, but after a 15 minute dig we had created a 5
person spa fit for a Roman Emperor. It was a little hot to start with,
but after adding a couple of Growlers we soon settled in – after 30
minutes we may never have left if it wasn't for the tide breaching our
spa walls!
Anchor Watch – Just when we thought they were all over, a new watch has
been introduced. Thankfully it's only an hour per person this time, and
only when we are on an anchorage that can change wind direction during
the night. Peggy & Chris are taking the first few hours tonight, I'm
still awake drying my clothes from today as we hope to take on a larger
walk on the Island tomorrow and visit a few penguin rookeries to get a
real taste of the Antarctic wildlife.
Chow
Posted by Stephen
1:47am 17th December 2007
posted by Ross @ 6:44 PM
3 Comments
After another night tucked in the relative quiet of Calate Marchialle,
we all rose at 4.30am, had a quick breakfast (the porridge was good) and
motored across to Cape Horn. After the weather of the previous two days
it was amazingly calm as we anchored off the Horn. It was in fact
crowded as the Chilian Navy were exchanging staff and reprovisioning the
house at Cape Horn, and a Chilian cruise ship overtook us on the way in.
No room on the landing platform.
The challenge of the day was the assembly of the zodiac. It took all of
us and a few strong boots to assemble and inflate the heavy, floppy
beast on the deck of Spirit. Darryl worked his magic on the outboard
and we zipped in through a bed of kelp landing on slippery rocks along
the shore. The steps to the top gave us all some exercise. The tiny
church was very spiritual, and the monuments austere atop the windy
bluff. We did the touristy thing and our passports were processed with
the Cape Horn stamp. The cruise ship passengers didn't land, only
coming in by zodiac to touch the land, so we had the place to ourselves.
Farewell mainland, Antarctica here we come! Deflating and stowing the
zodiac is ever so much easier than assembling it. Leaving at 11am
yesterday we hoisted the sails and set a course toward Deception Island.
The sailing has been interesting, strong winds, lumpy seas, squally
showers, and fine sunny periods. We've made speeds as high as 20.2
knots, and regularly sailed at 10-12 knots. The seasick sailors are
recovering and we're all happy and well. Its much easier handling the
yacht in 30knot plus winds and 3-5metre swells than when we started.
We're becoming accustomed to sleeping when we can and cooking while
braced. (even tea and coffee are a mission)
Albatross and storm petrels have been flying around the yacht most of
the way – they are amazing birds, so graceful and masters of the air.
We crossed the convergence just before 2 pm this afternoon and the
temperature has dropped - water temp now 2deg C. We're making good
time, and the weather is expected to hold a similar pattern for the rest
of the crossing. If we do get a calm patch then showers will be the
order of the day – a welcome treat for us all!
Posted by Joy
posted by Ross @ 11:21 AM
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Our target destination was Calate Marchialle, on Isla Herschel, just a
short hop to Cape Horn, where we were eagerly anticipating an
opportunity to land and have our passports stamped. This is becoming a
rare chance as the Chileans are likely to stop this practice in the next
summer season.
During this transition, we all took turns to take the helm, or to do the
rope thing (My understanding of the correct terminology is a bit "ropey"
at the moment, as you can see). An amazing team stew made earlier in
the day was completely demolished as various shifts reported in to the
galley after their respective shifts.
It is interesting how you adjust to disturbed sleep when summonsed to
take the 2 am shift. There is nothing like a blast of cold air to wake
yourself up, and we are not even into the cold stuff yet.
Sailing in the Cape Horn region is interesting! Especially when you
turn the wheel "left hand down a bit", when Captain Darryl actually
asked for "right hand down a bit". Still, there is nothing like a bit
of a mistake like that to focus the mind at 3 am.
Our last bit of navigation was to pass through a tricky little narrows
called Paso Brava. So named because the locals reckon you need steel
balls to do so. All done at about 1:30 am. This amazing piece of
shipmanship was achieved by Mary and myself under careful tutelage from
Ben and Darryl. We are now legends in our own minds. Helm orders were
being regularly issued, which seemingly had me driving the yacht
straight onto the rocks, a thing that I did not want to be associated
with.
Never mind, Captain Darryl and first Mate Ben had it all under control
and at about 2:30 we awoke the rest of the team as we dropped anchor for
the night, about 2 hours before hurricane force winds were forecasted to
hit.
We all slept well for the rest of the evening (or what was left of it)
and awoke to some pretty strong winds and some rain. So, in the best
TTC traditions, we turned our attentions to preparing and eating food
all day. By 3pm, the weather was showing no signs of easing and the
details of the trip to Cape Horn remain a bit foggy.
Chris
posted by Ross @ 8:05 AM
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The new radar arrived at 10pm last night and we left Ushuaia at midnight
Jane and Mary took first watch – dark and a bit rainy when we set off
but it soon got lighter. Peggy and Frances were next out, followed by
Ross and Chris and then Steve and Joy. We'll all soon be on the case
with the lingo of cardinals, flashers and other nautical terms. Also
the etiquette of providing teas and coffees for the replacements!
This morning we have been installing the radar and catching up on sleep
while we wait to be cleared by Chilean customs.
Sitting here and now it's 10.46am … still waiting for the uniforms to
come down the path with the relevant documents to allow us to be signed
in and out simultaneously. This will enable us to enter Chile and also
to visit anywhere else. Without it we get the patrol boat and wouldn't
get much further!
We're using the time while it's quiet to make proper coffee and laminate
maps and such like. Ben's in the wombat hole which is his cabin and
Darrel's busy being a sparky …
Hang on, the first guy's on the way and then we need another permission
called a zarpe ('zarpay' … no acute accents from THIS blogger!). We're
optimistic it will be a short time then we'll be off.
Written by Jane and others
PS we are now anchored at Calita Marsheil near Cape Horn waiting for a
break in the weather. A new blog is being written.
posted by Ross @ 3:39 AM
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A continuation of queueing and flying that commenced at 4.30am saw us arrive in Ushuaia fondly referred to by locals as the end of the world. Due to the misadventures of our boat we were expecting to have to stay in Ush a couple of days longer than planned and that turned out to be the case. We spent the remainder of the day dodging tourists doing the shopping thing and then doing the bar thing followed by a great asado meal. We all collapsed into bed early feeling the effects of travel and lack of sleep.
Labels: Ushuiaia
posted by Ross @ 10:44 AM
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After arriving in BA we headed out to one of the famous Tango shows. The requirements were steak, red wine and and a taste of the classic, passionate dance. The show was excellent, tracing the history of Tango from its origins as a dance between sailors and prostitutes through to its modern, sensual form. It is clearly a tussle for control and dominance with lots of energy, skill and legs on display. Lots of compromising photos of the group but no USB on this PC. They will appear.
posted by Ross @ 8:47 PM
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Packing is almost complete. We will be close to our 46kg limit with all the sports gear. The toughest part is the number of pairs of shoes: - gumboots for sailing/zodiac landings, crocs, ski boots, mountaineering boots and tramping boots/running shoes were pretty essential. There wasn't room for dress shoes so we will Tango in tramping boots (I never could dance anyway).
posted by Ross @ 10:11 PM
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