Update #11

23rd December into Christmas Eve!

Today started with my anchor watch which was actually quite interesting
and busy. Fending off the ice with a big stick and watching seals and
smelly penguins … I can think of worse things to do to spend the time
between 5.30 am and 7.

We then moved on to Paradise Harbour and Mary, Steve and Joy had a
paddle. The scenery was breathtaking and we were surrounded by chunks
of ice. First spot of Adelie penguins – apparently named after Queen
Adelie of France. Engine off and peace amongst the ice, great. The
paddlers carried on towards yet another base and we then motored towards
it too. Paddler switch then happened and Mary and Joy came back on
board and Ross and Ben started out. After a long paddle they reported
that they'd seen a leopard seal take out a penguin … if I'd been in a
kayak at the time I wouldn't have been for long! Had a go yesterday
though so that was good.

After a zodiac dance singing Jingle Bells which went down very well we
carried on to Cuverville and dropped anchor while the snow started … we
decided that today would be Christmas Day so that was very apt and we
are all wearing Christmas Hats and we've hanging baubles around the
boat. This morning we hoisted Santa to the top of the mast. His beard
is growing well and he looks the part. (That's Chris) Several photos
and a broken rope – sorry halyard – later we lowered him down. It
wasn't his fault the rope broke, honest.

We travelled amongst several squillions of penguins and watched them
porpoise and jump up off ice. You've got to be here to see it. It's
funniest when they try and jump out of the water and miss. Zillions of
photos later we dropped anchor behind the Australis Australis Santa
Maria Australis with their zodiac called Australis Australis … they will
conveniently shield us from the ice for whoever is on anchor watch – not
me, I did my time yesterday. We'll miss Dorca and Snow Petal.

Peggy, Chris and Mary decided to stomp up the nearest hillock in the
driving snow (?) and Chris had a bit of an equipment failure due to
Dazza's Dodgy Dealing Equipment dot com. Later we watched the guests of
the VodkaOffSki (our ship we are joining tomorrow) skip merrily up there
in half the time. Several excuses followed … owing to the weather and
equipment considerations. The Offskis just walked up in jandals (I'm
surrounded by Kiwis) no doubt.

Hey it's Christmas and after a few emails, a Kill Me or two – Quilmes is
how the Argentines spell the local beer - a fabulous BBQ and Christmas
empanadas which were actually our pince mies in disguise made by Peggy
(delicious), we actually have made it to now. Considering what we have
done it's impressive and we've had a fab time. Tomorrow we transfer to
the VodkaOffSki and we'll miss our wee Spirit of Sydney. Thanks to
Dazza and Ben, it's been great.

Posted by Jane (most people have called me Mary this trip but I'm not!!)

Darrel is now having huge amounts of fun because he's seen the weather
report for when we're across the Drake. Looks like we're in for a shake
rather than a lake for the trip back. Oh well, shit happens.

We are about to transfer to the Vavilov (popularly known as the
Vodkaofski) so will no longer be contactable at the GMN email address.
Will need to suss how we email from Vavilov.